What is the maximum you are willing to spend on a powered subwoofer?

[Pete_Hsu]

What is the maximum you are willing to spend on a powered subwoofer (ie. one that includes an amp)?

[octalon7]

Depends on the stage of my life I'm in my friend, and also what windfalls happen to come my way. But, just to clarify I'll put the amount I'm willing to spend right now at this point in my life.

[nhan070]

Depends on the stage of my life I'm in my friend, and also what windfalls happen to come my way....

Ditto that...

[spyboy]

Peter

I hope Dr. Hsu can bring in the VTF-3HO in maple for $899 delivered. The majority who said they would spend a maximum of $800 would probably come up with another $100 for a blond VTF-3HO.

[Rob Babcock]

Probably about $500 for me. I spent $1800 on my pair of TN-1220's and Model 500 amp, then bought an extra Model 500 from someone who stepped up to a Crown K2. But they're passive subs. I'm a very strong believer in passive subs with external amps, so the only thing I'd use a powered sub for is a 2nd system/bedroom rig where the demands would be minimal. I'm sure there are countless good powered models, but I just don't trust an amp mounted in the same box with the bass driver.

Many people are just the opposite- they won't even look at unpowered subs, often because they like the elegance of an integrated solution and won't mess with separate amps. And there are some good price-no-object powered models that incorporate parametric eq. It all depends on what you like, I guess.

[tdekany]

I voted $1200.00 if that was the price of the VTF3 HO

How can anyone think that it would be profitable at $899.00? :confused: :eek: :D

[Active Speaker]

Probably about $500 for me. I spent $1800 on my pair of TN-1220's and Model 500 amp, then bought an extra Model 500 from someone who stepped up to a Crown K2. But they're passive subs. I'm a very strong believer in passive subs with external amps, so the only thing I'd use a powered sub for is a 2nd system/bedroom rig where the demands would be minimal. I'm sure there are countless good powered models, but I just don't trust an amp mounted in the same box with the bass driver.

Many people are just the opposite- they won't even look at unpowered subs, often because they like the elegance of an integrated solution and won't mess with separate amps. And there are some good price-no-object powered models that incorporate parametric eq. It all depends on what you like, I guess.

Just curious: why did you feel the need to buy an additional 500 watt amp, when one amp will power two 1220s?

[Rob Babcock]

Well, the new Model 500 amp runs cooler when driving two subs, but mine is the older version (circa 2001). An online buddy had a spare '500 as he'd upgraded to a Crown K2, and I bought his Hsu. My thinking was to use one amp for each sub to keep heat down, although in all the years I've had them, I'd only gotten the single amp to shut down once from heat (and that was playing an Xbox game extrememly loud for a long time- a severe and unreasonable torture test to be sure- and the amp was none the worse for wear).

I'll confess, a second reason was that I thought I might one day buy a second pair of TN-1220s. :eek: Yes, four of them in one room is probably rediculous overkill, but if some is good, then more is better, and too much is just right! :D For now, I've back burned my dreams of world bass domination and accepted that a pair will have to get my by!

[Active Speaker]

I wonder if there is a real audible difference with two 500 watt amps versus just one?

[spiffnme]

I'd go as high as $1500, but it would have to be one HECK of a sub. Both in performance and looks.

[Rob Babcock]

Well, I temporarily had one hooked up to each 500 W amp, but not for long enough to say. In the short time I had it hooked up like that I didn't crank anything hard enough to really test it. It didn't seem to make much diff- that's why I ended up going back to one amp and selling the extra.

[Eddie Horton]

I'd go $1200.00. That's with selling my VTF-3MkII. If I weren't going to sell my current sub and use that money toward a new one, then I'd go $800.00.

[Iceblade]

Put me down for $800 as well for a brand new one. More than that, and it starts to get into diminishing returns for my 17x18 room.

Thanks,
Jeff

[TorontoBassHead]

How much is your most expensive model? Theres my limit. Have VTF3 MK2 now and love it!

[DNelms]

I think if this question had been asked a few years ago the number of responses would have been lower but the cost that people would be willing to pay would have been higher. (Am I making sense)

There are alot more people around now who want to hear bass but sre not sure what good bass is. They seem to be willing to pay big bucks in high end audio huts for performance that is equal to that of the STF/VTF subs.

There are so many better subs out there now that the difference between the real high dollar models and the real world models (which is where I personally consider Hsu subs) and there will always be the bagain basement models.
The gap between the real world subs and the high dollar subs is starting to close and you can get an awsome sub for under $1000. (Did anyone say VTF?)

[95 Silver TA]

Truthfully Peter, I am not a rich guy so I thought 700 bucks was real damn expensive for a Sub. My original budget for a Sub was 600 bucks and I considered that a lot for a sub. HOWEVER as soon as I plugged my new VTF-3 in and started listening to some music and then watching movies, I realized it was well worth the money. After a 3-4 days and a few more DTS movies that had more Bass tracks in them and just a few more songs, even-though I thought 700 bucks was a lot of money, knowing what I know about the VTF-3 sound and power, I would have saved up and got the VTF-3 for $1,000.00 and still would have been extremely happy about it! Its an awesome product! To be honest, I have listened to sub 1K subs at my local Tweeter store and was not entirely impressed with the sound or performance for a grand (too much of a boomy sound and or port noise and or some did not sound good with music)...Everytime I watch a movie or listen to music, I am in complete Awe of this product.....

Keep up the GREAT Work Guys....

I would say now, I would EASILY spend a grand on a product like this.

Thx,
Claude

[Pete_Hsu]

Claude, wow.....testimonials like that just blow us away, and really make our day! Thank you for helping contribute to this wonderful community here!

Sincerely,

[Drifter]

I haven't made the plunge for a sub yet. I think $1000 is the real cut off point for me. I was looking at the B&w 675 $1000 list $860 at dealer. Paradigm pw2200 $960 list $860 dealer. Then there is the higher priced one..Vandersteen 2wq $1200. This starts to get a little steep and it has been said there is a point of dwindling return for the money.

It is also difficult to spend that money on a product you can't look at or hear. I am sold on a HSU sub from all the reviews, but part of that is VALUE. At $700 for the HSU VTF 3 MK II you have beat many of the competitors prices for a sub that appears to sound as good if not better. It is great to keep improving on a product. but I think it is important to stay in the price range of the mainstream income level such as myself.

[Iceblade]

Drifter,

Just for reference in case you weren't aware... the Vandy 2WQ is pretty much geared towards a music-only environment. That particular sub lacks sufficient rumble for action movies and things of that ilk. It is, by Vandersteen's definition, "too accurate" for most people's taste in a movie sub. Bearing this in mind, Vandy created the V2W sub which is a "video" (aka movie) version of the 2WQ sub that has more impact for movie listening. Hope that is somewhat helpful.

Regs,
Jeff

[JDaddabbo]

$1200 max because first one would need two subwoofers (for me $2400 max) located to the sides of the listening position driven properly(1) to achieve outstanding bass performance, i.e. the best possible bass performance that a given size/cost subwoofer can achieve in room xyz. Please, this doesn’t mean maximum output at a given frequency, or even maximum average output for a given frequency range. Instead it would also include such factors as uniformity of the low frequency propagation throughout the entire room and more specifically the seating positions (1, 3 or sometimes 6). As well as the ability of a given setup to Externalize the low frequencies and produce extremely solid/tight bass. Sorry to those who have never heard it stated this way. Hmmm… how could I describe this? Ahhh… even though you may Hear it to be Loud and even Feel a lot of bass, it comes across as “in-the-head” sounding, as Lexicon puts it. Instead the same Loudness and Feeling of bass (well actually when done right it’s definitely more of a feeling, which of course is the point) seems to come from WAY outside of you (i.e. your head), the sound is BIG, the bass is Solid and tight and seems to mirror the music perfectly. Well that’s the best I can do I’m afraid, you’ll just have to hear the difference someday to know what I’m talking about… then again you better NOT unless you are prepared to implement both Dual Stereo Subs and a new Processor that will allow you to setup and perform proper low frequency management, for otherwise you be very sorry you ever heard how good bass can get (remember that is regardless of shear Output which is govern solely by Dollars spent, which in the case of HSU subwoofers, is simply the least possible $$$ anywhere on the face of the plant !!!)

(1.) Driven properly - This assumes placement to the sides of the listener and that the processor drives the two subs (or full range speakers) in Stereo and for frequencies below 150hz with a constant Phase Shift of 60 to 90 degrees between the loudspeakers on the left and right side of the listener.

There have been several studies and more importantly, Implementations of this very technique. If you happen to own, or know someone who does own a Lexicon DC-1 Version 4 software only or above, i.e. MC-1, MC-8 and MC-12 (not sure about the new MC-4), then you have heard Lexicon’s description of this process known to them as the “Bass Enhance Effect” (of course others may refer to it differently). See the below link to Lexicon’s Theory and Design 38 page booklet / .pdf
( http://www.lexicon.com/products/download-details.asp?ID=6&FileID=63 )

O.K., I know... I just open the flood gates for Replies/Debates; but frankly if you do not wish to believe me, it will only be your lose. If however you care to investigate further, and to get enough understanding on the topic to be able to decide for yourself if what I say is in fact true, then hats off to you for keeping an open mind and your continuous quest for even better and better sound reproduction.

[tafguy]

I voted $1200.00 if that was the price of the VTF3 HO

How can anyone think that it would be profitable at $899.00? :confused: :eek: :D

Why not?

If Hsu can make the new VTF-HO line of subwoofers affordable under $1000 then even already owners of current HSU sub may want to get additional sub knowing already how good current ones perform. I, personally, vote for a price up to $1000 for both VTF HO models. That is the maximum I will be willing to spend for a new subwoofer.

Below is an excerpt of an article dated January 15, 2005 from "Ultimate AV" site that I just copy and paste here to show the forecast price in red. Of course, I'm talking about the VTF HO lines here, which I'm very interested .

"Hsu Research has a gaggle of new subwoofers in the works. Most exciting for those of us who like to plumb the depths is a new VTF-HO line, with replacements for the VTF-2 and VTF-3. A 4-inch-diameter port was designed for the new VTF-2 HO and VTF-3 HO. A larger port allows more extreme low-frequency output, but it also requires a larger box and a curved duct. A Hsu patented design reduces the port noise such an arrangement would otherwise generate. With its 1000-watt amp and a price forecast to be under $1000, you have the usual high-value subwoofer Hsu is famous for. "