Recommendations for stands for HB-1 MK2

[FourthMusketeer]

Hello, all.

I am planning on getting the Enthusiast 1 or 2 package (Rosenut finish).

I have seen several recommendations in this forum for stands for the VT-12 series speakers, but the only thing I've found for the HB-1 MK2 series is "They should be placed on stands."

I do not plan on wall-mounting them. I will need stands for all four surrounds. I'm not sure what I will need to do with the center channel yet, but that's not a major concern at this time.

I have not done any research into stands yet because I wanted to leverage all of the knowledge here first. :)

Any suggestions?

[Pete_Hsu]

Hi FM, welcome to the forum!

In our demo room we are using stands by Sanus Systems (model EF28), but nothing special needed. Try to find a speaker stand so that the tweeter is at ear level when sitting down (ie. the height of the stand + 11 inches = height of the ear off the floor).

Sincerely,

[FourthMusketeer]

Pete,

Thanks for the quick reply. I have a few questions regarding how you use the Sanus stands in your demo room:

1. Since the HB-1 MK2's don't have threaded mounting holes how do you have the speakers secured to the mounting plates?

2. Do you have the speaker wire running up the hollow center support tube?

[Pete_Hsu]

Hi FM,

One can use some sticky tack to put underneath the bookshelf speaker. We actually used some double-sided tape in our demo room, which is nice and sticky, but almost impossibe to remove without scratching the bottom of the speaker.

Most people do run the speaker wire along the hollow tube.

Sincerely,

[monkuboy]

I use a product called QuakeHold museum putty to secure the speakers to the stands. You can find it on Amazon.com. All you need is a little bit (just follow the directions) and after it sets, you can pretty much turn the speakers horizontally and they will stay put. You can remove the speakers with a simple "twist" (the directions show you how) and the putty also comes off without leaving any marks. Just don't use too much. The first time I used it I doubted the directions and used more than it said to use.. it took a HUGE effort to remove them from the stands.

Also, I would like to suggest you check out stands from StudioTech and see what you think. They make excellent products and have excellent customer service as well.
________
PENNY STOCK PICKS (http://pennystockpicks.net/)

[FourthMusketeer]

LOL - "A little dab'll do ya?" Thanks for that thought. I've never heard of anything like QuakeHold.

I was looking at some Bello SP-224 stands (I like the more modern curves - but not the build quality) at SpeakerStandsOnline and they include Velcro strips. I like that idea better than double-sided (perma) tape, but I think QuakeHold would be better yet.

EDIT:
I noticed on the StudioTech SP-30B stands that the top plate is 6"x6". The HB-1 MK2 speakers are 8"x8". Is that a problem, or is it fairly common (or even preferable) to have the top plate be smaller than the speaker?

[monkuboy]

Yes definitely a "little dab'l do ya" for the Quake Hold. If you put too much on your problem will be far worse than just being a "wet head" haha.. wow those commercials are old, aren't they?

I think it is better to have the top plate smaller than the speaker. As long as the stand is stable, that is all that matters, I would say. I don't have any problem with my stands and the top plate is only about 6 x 6 or even smaller.
________
EAGLE OPTIMA (http://www.dodge-wiki.com/wiki/Eagle_Optima)

[kmitchell]

Here's a link to what I use:

http://forum.hsuresearch.com/showpost.php?p=35196&postcount=44

[kmitchell]

Hi FM,

One can use some sticky tack to put underneath the bookshelf speaker. We actually used some double-sided tape in our demo room, which is nice and sticky, but almost impossibe to remove without scratching the bottom of the speaker.

Most people do run the speaker wire along the hollow tube.

Sincerely,

A neighbor of mine showed me a trick for breaking through the tack tape without damaging the speaker surface. What you do is slip a piece of fishing line in between the speaker and the plate and "saw" through the tack tape using a back and forth motion. Once you've broken the bond between the plate and speaker you can carefully work to get the tape off the speaker surface.

Hope this helps,
Ken

[kmitchell]

Here's a link to what I use:

http://forum.hsuresearch.com/showpost.php?p=35196&postcount=44


Just noticed the R & S no longer has these stands.

I found them here:

http://www.audio-video-furniture.com/Common/Product/Product.aspx?ID=1240&qid=search201a-sj3.mercadosearch.com_i04-100524-00:17:38-17097

[Pete_Hsu]

That's for the great tip Ken, we'll have to try that out sometime :)

Sincerely,

[FourthMusketeer]

Ken,

LOL! Sounds like dental floss works the same way!

I like the fact that the stands you referenced are adjustable. My current "ear height" is 41 inches, but I'm going to be moving and getting new furniture. That feature could come in handy.

[FourthMusketeer]

Ok,

Here's what I ended up with:

1325

I really like them! They look like they were made for these speakers.

Check out the base. It has a shape that is similar to the speaker grille. There are adjustable spike feet (for carpets) and special disks to put under the spikes for hard floors.

1326

The center post can be filled with sand or shot to make them heavier if you have really monster speakers you want to put on there.
Also, the mounting plate is an excellent fit. 8" front to back and 6 1/2" side to side.

1327

I got them here (http://www.speakerstandsonline.com/VTI-DF-VI1045.html). Search for SKU VI1045 on SpeakerStandsOnline if the link doesn't work for you. These are the 29" model. They are sold as a pair and cost $109.99 with free delivery. They show up in about a week.

They are very solid. They come with circular double-sided foam disk pads to adhere the speaker to the mounting plate, which is sturdy enough for my needs. If there is a lot of bumpin'-n-grindin' going on at your place you might want to come up with a more industrial adhesive solution.