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  #1  
Old June 16th, 2009, 5:31 PM
shadyJ shadyJ is offline
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Some tips on getting a better wireless connection with the ULS-15

I just received and setup my dual drive a few days ago, and I am madly in love with this thing! However, I had a finicky connection using the wireless, so I talked to someone who is a RF expert on how to get a more consistent connection. Here is a few things he told me which dramatically improved my connection:
  1. Make sure the antennas are all vertically oriented! On one of my ULSs that had a intermittent connection, the antenna that you have to screw in the back was at a 45 degree angle. I straightened this out to point straight up, and haven't had any problems since. This is critical for obtaining a solid signal, and may warrant a mention in the ULS owner's manual because of the degrees of freedom the receiving antenna can be screwed on with.
  2. Make sure there is no metal blocking the path from the transmitter to the subwoofer antenna. If you do get a connection with a metal barrier, it will be due to signal reflection, and will be a poorer quality signal. Drywall and wood can weaken the signal somewhat but it will still get through, but metal will block it.
  3. In the owner's manuel it says to place the transmitter high, but according to my source, who has decades of experience in RF technology, the most ideal location for a transmitter is on the same plane as the receiving antennas. Of course, this is not possible for many setups, and high placement is the next best place and should present no problems.
  4. If you can not give the subwoofer line of sight with the transmitter, you can use signal reflection to make a connection. However, reflection does create 'dead zones' for the signal in the reflected area so it may take some placement experimentation to get right.
Hopefully these tips can benefit other ULS owners and improve their wireless use like they did for me.
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  #2  
Old June 16th, 2009, 6:27 PM
Pete_Hsu Pete_Hsu is offline
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This is absolutely wonderful info shadyJ, thank you so much! I will pass along to Dr. Hsu and the others here...

Thanks again

Sincerely,
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  #3  
Old June 16th, 2009, 7:41 PM
Pete_Hsu Pete_Hsu is offline
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One question for you, shadyJ: does the RF expert have any tips on how to use signal reflection to make a connection?

Thanks
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  #4  
Old June 16th, 2009, 8:20 PM
shadyJ shadyJ is offline
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I'll ask him tomorrow (he is my father, by the way). I'll also ask him if there is any way to mitigate the cross-talk between things like video game controllers and other stuff that uses remote RF connections, as I know there has been some owners with problems with that.

One thing that happened which I should relate for those who have dual drives/quad drives and want to use more than one transmitter: I had two transmitters plugged into two different receivers. They were ALL set to channel three so I thought I could use the dual drives with both systems without having to change anything whenever I wanted. What resulted was both of the subwoofers were functioning intermittently whenever I tried to play anything back on either system. The cause of this was the subs were only receiving and playing back the signal from the NEAREST transmitter, whether that signal was dead air or music, even if the receiver was turned off (thanks for catching that one, dad!). It's like when two radio station transmitters equal in distance and broadcast amplitude fight over the same frequency on your radio receiver: the resulting sound will be garbled niose.

The bottom line is don't have any of the transmitters use the same channel!
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Old June 17th, 2009, 10:21 AM
Pete_Hsu Pete_Hsu is offline
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Thanks shadyJ, and a big thank you to your father too
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  #6  
Old June 17th, 2009, 5:13 PM
shadyJ shadyJ is offline
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Here's what he told me about signal reflection,etc

About signal reflection, metal is the only material that will substantially reflect radio waves. You can try to use it to reflect a signal, but the reflected signal will interfere with the oncoming signal, which creates a interference pattern of boosted peaks and nulls. In some of these reflected areas, the signal will actually be stronger, and in others it will be canceled out as a 'dead zone'.
So if you are thinking about bouncing signals off surfaces to get to the antenna receiver around something (like rebounding balls off the rail in a game of Pool), you will need a metal reflecting surface, and you will also need to move the receiving antenna around a little bit until you have hit a boosted peak.

By the way, if, for whatever reason, the transmitter can't be moved too far to accommodate the subwoofer's position, you can extend the receiving antenna to a better position instead of having it be in a fixed spot on the back of the subwoofer. All you need is a coax cable of the same characteristic impedance as the coax connector where you screw the antenna in. I don't know what impedance it is rated for- HSU would have to share that information, but I'm sure it is a common type that can be purchased at radio shack. Just buy the right cable, and connect the subwoofer to one end of the cable and the antenna to the other, and you have a lot greater flexibility in achieving line of sight between the transmitting and receiving antennas.

I also asked my dad about ways to correct interferences between the wireless subwoofer connection and other wireless devices. Unfortunately, there isn't a whole lot that can be done there without knowing which is the offender: the transmitting source or the receiver on the sub. Radio wave bandpass filters can be used to correct offending transmitters, but you would need a spectrogram analyzer to figure out which device it is, and I am guessing doing all that is more effort than most people are willing to invest.
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Old June 17th, 2009, 8:23 PM
Pete_Hsu Pete_Hsu is offline
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This is wonderful info shadyJ, I really can't thank you and your father enough!

Sincerely,
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  #8  
Old July 1st, 2009, 9:47 AM
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hometheatergeek hometheatergeek is offline
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ShadyJ,

Thanks for the wireless info, but what I want is a better sound review from you. I posted my review here and would like to see you post also, if you have time, so we can gang up on those SVS and EPIK fanboys.
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  #9  
Old July 1st, 2009, 4:18 PM
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Hope this video clip will help some, boosting your signal:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOBfxbpxosA
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  #10  
Old July 1st, 2009, 5:12 PM
shadyJ shadyJ is offline
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What can I say about the ULS-15s? They sound fantastic, and they have met my high expectations. They are phenomenal! I have a VTF3.3, and while the VTF can get down into some really low frequencies, it does not do so as effortlessly as the ULS. At 16 hertz, the VTF strains somewhat while the ULS sings. It has a different sound too. The VTF has a kind of subtle rumble that the ULS doesn't. It might be because of the way I have them set up though. Don't get me wrong about the VTF3 though, it is the best subwoofer I have heard before the ULS: it is tight, it is precise, it is loud, and it absolutely rocks. In fact, I don't really believe that the ULS can get much louder than the VTF. But in every other respect the ULS bests it.
Here is an anology I have made before: if the VTF3.3 is a corvette among subwoofers, the ULS is a Ferrari. The top speeds aren't necassarily faster, but the control, acceleration, the braking, the handling, and the aesthetics are all much better.
I mostly listen to music with these things, but occasionally I will watch a movie, and to see its movie performance, I put Cloverfield in the DVD drive on my computer. I had the volume way up on my receiver and the master volume on my computer very low, but for some reason the DVD playback software (PowerDVD) didn't recognize the master volume level on the computer and somewhow defaulted it to maximum volume. Cloverfield starts with sounds of the monster stomping on the ground and gets progressively louder. This setup is in my basement, and the last few monster stomps shook the 2x8 rafters, the walls, the windows, and the flooring of the above room. It literally shook the house. My mother and sister ran downstairs to see what was wrong!
That was cool but I don't want to do that again, I don't want to destroy the speakers or my house.
As for Epik and SVS fanboys, I don't want to gang up on them, I think both companies make very good products. In fact, Epik is only 20 minutes away from my house. I would love to hear their sealed designs someday. I go with HSU because I think they have a better balance of performance, features, cost, and aesthetics in their designs. I think that front ports are kind of ugly, and I have a feeling that Dr. Hsu feels this way too, which is why none of his designs have this.
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  #11  
Old July 1st, 2009, 5:19 PM
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That's what I'm talking about. Enjoy. You must play the ironhide flip in Transformers when you get a chance. It will literally make you grin.
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